Cycling in Death Valley

29-30 January 2026

We came for the road and gravel cycling. The bikes packed into the gear garage of the AEONrv, and we drove them 1000 miles from home to Death Valley. Mine is an electric pedal-assist gravel bike. As someone who has a malfunctioning endorphin system and gets madder with cardiovascular exercise, the e-bike has been a game changer in helping me keep up with Won, who gets positively euphoric with each mile of strenuous activity. Won has an analog bike, powered by naught but quadriceps, grit, and snacks.

The 9-mile route on Artists Drive is easily one of my top 3 rides ever. The road is entirely smooth pavement, and is a one-way loop for cars (strict 25ft vehicle length restriction). I was impressed at how considerate drivers were throughout the park (like-minded outdoorsy people, I suppose), and especially on Artists Drive. It probably helps that we did this ride on a weekday morning. All passed cautiously with plenty of room, and many honked or waved encouragement on the climb. We climbed from just below sea level to 1700ft, and then descended through fun twists, turns, and dips (hence the vehicle length restriction) back down. 

And the views! Behind and down below, the great salt flats provided a backdrop like an inland sea. In front and all around are the colors of the rock that not even the fanciest camera lens can quite capture. These hills are ancient deposited volcanic ash, with all sorts of minerals oxidizing slowly over time, creating a coat of many colors. I counted a dozen shades of pink on one hill, from blush to rosé to mauve to lilac. The culmination of the climb is at Artists Palette, with its hills of rainbow colors.

We combined Artists Drive with Badwater Road out and back from Badwater Basin. It was a 43 mile ride from the Furnace Creek campground, and it left us invigorated.

The next morning, saddle sore but with the memory of the wonderful colors of Artists Palette fresh in my mind, we decided to bike in the opposite direction from the campground. Death Valley National Park is the largest national park in the contiguous United States, and I was not prepared for how huge it is. What appeared to be a small distance on the park map turned out to be a 45 mile ride with even more elevation gain. This “recovery ride” took us up Daylight Pass road on a relentless climb. The descent was one of the most exhilarating, on a straight road with barely enough curving to slow you down, as the shimmery white expanse of the great salt flats gets closer and closer until you can see the craggily texture of the salt crust.

My e-bike battery died with 5 miles left to the campground. It’s no fun pedaling a 30lb bike on Highway 190 after being in the saddle for so long already. Sometimes your highest highs are on a bike, and also your lowest lows. Only Won witnessed my meltdown, bless him, and he looked more shellshocked about that than the actual ride. It was with great relief to finally limp up to the AEONrv, and an Oreo ice cream sandwich never tasted so good.