Bicycling In the West Coast

Moana, Pukakaiki, Greymouth, Hokitika, Harihari, and now Franz Joseph Glacier. It’s gorgeous watching the towns and coastline go by from the saddle of a bicycle.

I’d be lying if I said it was relaxing. There is only one 2-lane road that connects the towns of the West Coast of NZ’s South Island: Highway 6. The cars, campers, and trucks whiz by at 100km/hr, and often there is no road shoulder. Even a slight incline means huffing and puffing, terrified that I’ll be blown off the road by some tourist who can’t take a moment to brake and give me some room before passing. Just because I’ve slowed down to take in the sights doesn’t mean other travelers aren’t in a rush to get to the next destination on their itinerary. Also, there are the pleasures of being out in the elements: stinging sand flies, periodic rain showers that threaten hypothermia, ozone-free sunshine that fries your skin, and the pervasive smell of manure with each deep breath. Yet it is extraordinarily beautiful. One kilometer I’m biking along cliffs plunging down to the Tasman Sea, the next kilometer I’m pedaling under giant fern archways like some primordial explorer, and the next kilometer I’m having staring contests with cows in the pasture. And it’s rewarding. I could have never imagined the mixture of relief and joy of coasting up the driveway of a 5-start resort after a 40 mile ride, and how wonderful the hot rain shower and luxurious bed sheets feel, and how sweet the wine tastes.

Our favorite sightseeing spot so far was at Paparoa National Park, where there are rock formations shaped like pancakes (hence the name, Pancake Rocks). The pounding surf of the sea bursts through vertical blowholes eroded through the limestone.

It’s almost impossible to get a bad picture when your backdrop is this stunning…

Except when your husband says “move right” when he means left, and instead of getting out of the panoramic artistic shot, you poke your head in. And end up with an amazingly unflattering photo:

We chased a little flightless bird into the bush, thinking it was a Kiwi. Turns out, as our Backroads guide gently told us, it’s not. This is a Weka, or Maori hen, which is still pretty neat.

We’ve bicycled about 250 miles so far (less for me, since I get a lift from the support van whenever I see a big hill). Backroads is a great company, and our 3 guides are the best. Imagine a job description that requires extroversion and the ability to be a constant social lubricant, spot on organizational skills for complex logistical planning, the athleticism to bicycle hundreds of miles better than your fittest guests, and the grace and patience to deal with hard-to-please people. It might be more challenging than being a surgeon, to be honest. We have 16 guests on this trip. There’s another honeymooning couple in their 30s, but everyone else is well into their mature years, with one amazing gentleman who is almost 80. The guy blew past me on his bicycle on the first hill, and I’ve never caught up!

We have a rest day today at the Te Waonui Forest Retreat. I have a spa appointment for a 90 minute massage in a little bit, while Won nurses his sore muscles in bed with hours of uninterrupted gaming time.

March 16, 2018