Biking the Going-To-The-Sun Road

Glacier National Park, June 2021

The Going-to-the-Sun Road is a 50 mile engineering marvel that bisects Glacier National Park, crosses the Continental Divide, and is so narrow in parts that vehicles longer than 21 ft are prohibited. There is one switchback, and a maximum 6% grade, as the road climbs to 6646 ft elevation at Logan Pass. In every guide book and travel blog, driving this road is a must-do in Glacier, although I imagine it must be hard to enjoy the incredible views while also keeping your vehicle from plunging over the guard rails, or while playing the game of chicken necessary to secure a limited parking spot at each point of interest.

Every winter, the Going-to-the-Sun road closes and gets buried in snow packs that can exceed 80 ft deep. In an incredible annual feat of human determination and bureaucratic efficiency, road crews begin to clear the road each spring. According to a placard I read, even with equipment that can move 4,000 tons of snow an hour, it can take 2-3 months to fully plow the road, remove debris, and reinstall the guard railings. Luckily for cyclists, there is a window of glorious bicycling opportunity in late spring, when most of the road is cleared, yet not yet open to vehicles for the season. Parts of the magnificent Going-to-the-Sun road are open to hikers and bicyclists, unperturbed by cars. It is, in my humble opinion, by far and away the best way to experience the Going-to-the-Sun road, and the reason Won and I timed our trip to Glacier NP for the second week of June.

On an overcast Tuesday morning, we rented Cannondale electric-assist bikes and a hitch rack from Glacier Outfitters in Apgar Village, and drove our RV to Avalanche Campground. We set out to explore the 8 miles or so from Avalanche (where the Going-to-the-Sun road was closed to vehicles) to the Loop (where the road was closed to everyone while road crews are working). I am grateful for the Bosch electric motor, and definitely had it on the Turbo setting for much of the climb, while Won huffed and puffed on Eco mode. To each his own. Indeed, I saw every type of bicycle on the road, including a Brompton folding bike, Lycra-ed road cyclists, tandem bikes, and one intrepid father petaling his bike uphill while towing two toddlers on a hitch carrier.

It was a good 16 mile warm-up, out and back, for the morning. We then had lunch and a nap in the Revel at the Avalanche Campground. Just before 4pm, we set out again, this time passing the Loop where crews had finished work for the day, and making it all the way to Logan Pass, where the Visitor Center is still buried in a snow pack that is taller than I am. It was 32 miles there and back, with 3200 ft elevation gain.

Information for spring cycling

For spring cycling, here are some things I learned that I’m writing down here, so I remember the next time we come (because there will be a next time soon!):

Where to park (especially for RVers)

Avalanche Campground is closed until the Going-to-the-Sun road is open to vehicles, and instead serves as a giant parking lot for hikers and cyclists. As an RVer, you can claim a campsite and act like you are living there, even if you aren’t allowed to camp overnight. Before 9am on a week day, we had our pick of spots near the back of the campground (where it is quieter anyway), while everyone else was fighting for spots near the trailhead. We chose Site A21 for a home base, which was an ideal spot for lunch, a nap, and critter watching (a curious fox, a clueless young doe, and a sleeping owl). After 9am, things got a little crazy with competition for parking, which was entertaining to watch with my cup of morning coffee. Then, people around us started leaving around 12:30pm, with plenty of spaces available after 3pm. With sunset around 9pm this time of year, there are plentiful daylight hours to enjoy the road.

What to bring

Bikes, helmets, water, snacks of course. Some other things unique to this road: LAYERS. I started with a short-sleeved cycling jersey, and ended up on Logan Pass with a Patagonia down parka. By god, after about 4500 ft elevation, I was grateful for winter cycling gloves, an ear warmer headband, and a double layer of Darn Tough wool socks. Even still, I couldn’t feel my toes for several hours after the ride. BEAR SPRAY. Goes without saying in Glacier National Park, but can’t assume that just because it’s a popular path, bears will stay away. We saw a black bear cub contentedly minding its business at the side of the road, and were glad it wasn’t a grizzly. MOSQUITO REPELLENT. Every time we stopped for a photo or snack, mosquitoes seemingly the size of small birds would swarm. This got better at higher elevations, but we were glad to have doused ourselves with picaridin before the ride. EMERGENCY BEACON. We have a Garmin inReach MINI satellite communication device. In spring, snow avalanches are a possibility, and can reach the road and deposit debris. We decided we were ok with the risk, with reasonable precautions (like not stopping to take a break near an avalanche chute), and figured if we got buried, the satellite communicator might help.

Other things to remember

As part of the COVID mitigation strategy of the park, for the 2021 season, an Entry Reservation Ticket is necessary for the Going-to-the-Sun road, between 6am and 5pm. These tickets are $2 each, and reservable on recreation.gov, starting 60 days prior to arrival. For our dates, the tickets sold out the day after it opened in April. Other details can be found on the NPS website. The upside is that once you are in the park, it’s not as crowded as I am sure it could get.

How long does it take? Depends on how fast you can cycle uphill. I’ve been routinely passed by elderly joggers while I am on a bike, so even for back-of-the-peloton types like me, this is a doable ride (especially on an electric bike). It took us just under 3 hours to ride from Avalanche to Logan Pass and back, with several brief stops for photos (brief because of the mosquitoes).

After June 15 (through Labor Day), you can cycle the entire road from start to its finish at St. Mary at the eastern entrance of the park. However, you have to be off the road between 11am and 4pm. And you will have to share the road with cars, which always makes me too nervous to enjoy the ride.

June 9, 2021