The End of the Known World, Algarve, Portugal

I was glad to leave the 90 degree heat behind as we headed south and towards the coast. From a village in the Serra de Monchique mountain range, we pedaled towards the Atlantic. These were some of the steepest climbs of the trip.

It was the e-bikes’ time to shine. These machines are a game-changer. They open up bike touring to a wider range of people, from those who want to take in the scenery without grinding away on low gear, to those who didn’t have the time nor willpower to train, to those who just want to keep up with their spouses whose idea of vacation is “type 2 fun.” The majority of our group were Medicare-age or older, and everyone except 3 obstinate men (Won included) were on e-bikes. Even so, while Won powered up the Wall of Death followed by the Wall of Pain (2 hills with 12% grades), he left the road littered with e-bikers who were walking their bikes or had given up entirely and sat on the side of the road waiting for the support van.

The views from these backroads were stunning, and worth the climb. Before we knew it, we could smell the salt in the air and hear the gulls crying. The Atlantic!

This was our 2nd trip with Backroads (the company), which is my favorite way to travel. It’s expensive/something to save up for, but worth every penny. It’s not just the Relais Chateux hotels and foodie-worthy meals (which are admittedly nice). The value is in the complete delegation of the mental load of travel to the fabulous Backroads guides. These guides are amazing human beings: they are tour guides, translators, baggage transporters, medics, bike mechanics, athletes that can keep up with the most avid cyclists, cheerleaders, historians, entertainers, and therapists in equal measure. For 6 days, the only decision I had to make was whether I wanted boiled or scrambled eggs for breakfast. To each her own, and for those who enjoy logistics planning and complete cultural immersion while traveling, or those who dislike socializing (generally with the 65+ crowd), this might not be your cup of tea. As for me, it’s my jam, and I’m already budgeting for next year’s trip.

The final day, we started the ride at the south western most point of Portugal (and thus mainland Europe), the Promotorium Sacrum, the end of the world. From here the ancients gazed west and wondered what lay beyond the known world. From here Henry the Navigator and fellow mariners perfected the science of navigation, enabling voyages of discovery to the New World, opened the spice trade, and established the Portuguese empire. Here at Cabo de Sao Vicente stands a lighthouse guiding ships into the Strait of Gibraltar and the Mediterranean Sea, an obviously strategic place that has been the site of countless wars since ancient times. Today, it’s mostly the domain of campervans boondocking along the side of the road, vendors hawking trinkets, selfie-taking tourists, and intrepid cyclists willing to brave the headwind.

The Algarve, which is Portugal’s answer to Spain’s Costa del Sol, has its share of traffic jams and strip club and hamburger joints catering to hordes of sunbathing tourists. Signs advertising real estate don’t even bother with Portuguese. They’re in English, targeting towns full of Brits and Australians. Yet there are pockets of peace, where the only fights are between you and the seagulls for space.

We hung up our helmets at the sea. In total, we biked 185 miles, and over 10,000 ft elevation gain (2 Bosch batteries for me) across southern Portugal. Muito obrigada, Portugal!

October 15, 2023