Jiufen and Beitou, Taiwan

February 2023

Jiufen (九份) is a mountain-overlooks-the-sea old mining town in northeastern Taiwan. The name means “nine portions.” Ages ago, it was an isolated village of 9 families, who asked for “nine portions” every time shipments came in. Jiufen is an easy day trip from Taipei, especially if you hire a private driver. We arrived just as vendors were opening around 10am, before the tour buses arrived. The town is popular among tourists because of a claim to be the inspiration for Spirited Away, the Japanese anime movie that I’ve never seen. Apparently the claim is fabricated as well. Regardless, there is no denying the charm of the town, with its narrow staircases and alleyways filled with shops and tea houses. The red lanterns are what makes the place. It occurs to me that Jiufen would not be nearly as photogenic without them.

Beitou (北投) is within Taipei city limits, accessible by MRT, and is another easy day trip. It is famous for its sulfur-rich volcanic hot springs, the legendary home of the witch of Ketagalan, and a special place for the indigenous peoples who once lived in this area.

Apparently, people used to soft boil eggs in the hot springs. This is illegal now, but you can still buy sous vide tea eggs, which are delicious. Also, you can sous vide yourself in the numerous bath houses and private soaking rooms, and experience the healing wonders of sulfuric and radium-enriched waters.

February 22, 2023