Salzburg, Austria

September 25, 2025

I was sad to leave Bern, particularly when we transferred from the quiet, clean SBB Swiss train at Zurich to the OBB Austrian train headed to Salzburg and caught a whiff of urine permeating the cabin. It was a very long, very cramped, slightly disheveled 6 hour trip to Salzburg. If I were to do it again, I think I’d fly. No disrespect, as all trains in Europe are still leagues better than the Amtrak back home. And Austria is a neat and orderly and delightful place. My soul seems to be very Swiss though, and I began missing Switzerland before I had even departed its borders.

I spent most of the train ride listening to a podcast called “Switzerland, a Chronicle” by Peter Walker, apparently a UK software developer turned amateur historian. Each 20 minute episode consists of Peter methodically telling the story of the Swiss from ancient Celtic times. I’ve only reached the year 1000 CE (took 4 episodes), and got kind of lost in all the Charles and Ludwigs and Ottos in the line of succession. My takeaway is that human society 2000 years ago seems much the same as the present day, just with fewer Ludwigs and faster transportation. Humans fundamentally are the same. Also the national borders in continental Europe are really a thing of recent history. The people of German-speaking Switzerland may have more in common with Austrians across the border than their French-speaking countrymen.

Salzburg is as old as the rest of Europe, appearing in recorded history as a Roman settlement in the 1st century CE, very important in salt extraction and trade. Salzburg (“salt burg”) sits on the Salzach (“salt river”), which was protected and patrolled by the Hohensalzburg (“high salt fortress”). Salt was a key preservative back in the day. I get the sense that tourism is more what keeps the city afloat in modern times, especially when they have Mozart and the von Trapps. Our hotel was near the train station, in the "hip ethnic" part of town. Hotel Cocoon is the type of hotel that is the darling of Instagram, the kind of place with lotus and jujube hand wash, but not enough hooks in the bathroom. 

No, we did not join a Sound of Music tour, although I hear they’re enjoyable and not as kitschy as you’d expect. I’d already done my frolicking and singing in the alpine meadows of the Swiss Alps (I’ll spare you the video evidence). We did pay homage to Mozart, both by visiting the museum, and by listening to his music in between stops on the audio walking tour. I’ve fallen for Symphony No. 40 in G Minor, K. 550, and have made it my morning stretching music back home. Won, horrified that I hadn't ever seen such a classic movie, made us watch Amadeus in our Salzburg hotel room, which took 2 afternoons it was so long. The music and costumes were fantastic.

Things are noticeably cheaper in Austria, and the food is an improvement - for enjoyment, rather than just for sustenance. Schnitzels (thin fried cut of meat, typically veal in Austria), nockerls (soufflé pastry with raspberry jam inside), sacher-tortes (decadent chocolate cake), apple strudels, and all sorts of pasties! We walked all around Salzburg, and up the Kapuzinerberg to the Franziskischlössl (Franciscan fortress), to make up for it all. Plus, said we to ourselves, we’re carb-loading for the upcoming bike rides. By the way, as a rural American, it is bonkers to me that once I landed in Europe, I never got in another car. Half the towns prohibit them, and it is much more efficient to walk to your destination if it’s under a mile away. Or take a bus or train if you must. Every day was 20,000+ steps, when I have to really try (walk laps around the local park) to get 10,000 a day at home. Bring on the nockerls!

I was too frugal to buy another guidebook after Switzerland, and discovered a free Rick Steves audio walking tour of Salzburg. I’m starting to sound like a saleswoman for Rick Steves - no affiliation! - just grateful for his excellent, thorough, and informative content. While accompanied by the chipper voice of Rick and the brilliant music of Mozart, we saw the Baroque cathedral, Getreidegasse (old shopping lane with wrought-iron signage), Hohensalzburg Fortress, Mirabell Gardens.